Thursday, December 18, 2008

Switzerland..Dairy Good


It must be clear to most people who travel that Switzerland is a great country for chocolates and cheese, both utilizing milk from cows grazing on alpine pastures. I knew that going in, bit it never occurred to me that the Swiss also make phenomenal yogurt. As is evidenced by the above photo, the flavors are exotic and very imaginative. The chocolate and coconut combination is a natural, but I've never seen that at home, nor have I ever seen or tasted a citrus/exotic fruit blend like the Lychee/Pomelo blend. Both of these flavors were fresh and delicious. The Mango/Guava would please the entire southern hemisphere. Since Hirz brand is a Nestle product, one can only hope they might consider distributing it in the States. Our tastes have become more sophisticated than to settle for only Swiss Miss Cocoa, Quick, and Nestle Crunch bars, especially since we now know about Banana Split yogurt!

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

A New Meaning for "Hot Chocolate"


Lindt, the international Swiss chocolate manufacturer is selling this semi sweet chocolate in Italy. I've tasted chocolate with chili peppers in Italy before and have liked it. That heat hitting the back of one's throat is remarkable, slightly surprising, and just enough of a kick to allow the flavors to linger in your mouth for a few seconds more. If you get a chance try one of these products, please do. I may have to try to make a hybrid version at home, since I can't seem to find this product in stores locally. At the very least I am hoping to recreate a chocolate torte with chili that I ate at Al Mascaron in Venice. The Vosges brand of chocolate that is available locally has a few bars with chili peppers included, but their heat is mild in comparison to the European chocolates. Still, no one can compete with their bacon chocolate.

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Country Cheese


Tucked away mid block on Hopkins St, in the middle of Berkeley's "gourmet ghetto" is a small store with an amazing collection of high quality products. Country Cheese is not just a cheese store. I stumbled upon it as I walked between Monterey Market where I purchased dirt cheap produce and Berkeley Horticultural Nursery, where I intended to adopt some tomato plants for my garden.
Cheese, teas, coffees, spices, chocolates, condiments and much more pack this small 3 aisle store. It has become a most valuable resource for finishing salts because their prices are excellent. Fume De Sel is the most expensive at $60 per pound, but who needs a pound? At $3.75 per ounce it's affordable to everyone. The Salish alder smoked salt is one of my favorites of the smoked salt group and is priced lower here than anywhere I have seen it on the Internet. At $12 per pound they are giving it away. For texture it's difficult to resist the black lava salt with it's square, concave crystals.
Besides the 3 salts listed above, they also sell Murray River pink salt from Australia, one of the most popular finishing salts of all, as well as Hawaiian Alea salt. But we can't stop at the salt... the cheese selection is commendable, but fairly small for a store that has cheese in its name. I did expect more. the selection is nice and many were perfectly ripe and ready for immediate use, a big plus in my estimation.

This small purveyor of comestibles also had a very broad range of exceptional chocolates including Vosges of the bacon/chocolate, wasabi/chocolate, pink peppercorn/lemon chocolate fame. It's worth a trip there just to see what boutique chocolates are currently on the market. One Easter, instead of a dessert, I supplied my guests with a tasting of Vosges chocolates and we all had a wonderful time guessing the ingredients.
(510) 526-1333
1578 Hopkins St
Berkeley CA 94707

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

If You Like Habanero Heat But Hate the Process...


The first time I handled a Habanero pepper became my last time. I knew I had to be careful using it because of its excessive number of Scoville units and the potential for not only burning my eyes, but my skin as well. I gingerly washed it and then sliced the sides after cutting off the top. I dared not remove the seeds from it for fear of the damage it might do to me. Fortunately for me, I was merely infusing the Habanero flavor into vodka, so all I had to do was place it into the bottle and toss it after 30 - 45 minutes. Since I had forced the Habanero into the bottle with a chopstick I would not be able to retrieve it. After the infusion I drained the vodka from the bottle and tossed the bottle into the garbage can. Not so bad, I had thought, until disposing of another Habanero that hadn't been used. It went down the garbage disposal, and when I turned it on the entire kitchen seemed like a chemical war zone. I started coughing and my eyes burned from the fumes. I vowed never again to use a Habanero in cooking, even though I did enjoy its fruity heat.

Delight struck me as I looked at the Sciabica Olive Oil website recently and discovered that they had added a new flavor to their fine line of extra virgin olive oils. It was Habanero! On my very next trip to Ferry Plaza I bought a small bottle and tried it as soon as I returned home. Knowing that the heat would be too strong for me, I cut it with an unflavored olive oil and it was perfect. The heat will sneak up on you and catch you in the back of the throat much more intensely than a fine Tuscan olive oil, but it is wonderful. If you like intense heat drizzle this straight onto your food, but if you're a tenderfoot (or mouth) then tame the heat with a 5 to 1 ratio of unflavored olive oil. What a great way to avoid using a fresh pepper, but still getting the fresh flavor and heat.

http://www.sciabica.com/magento/

Monday, August 11, 2008

Alemany, the Grandfather of SF Farmers' Markets


Not knowing the exact history of this market, its year of origin is unknown to me, but my grandparents bought produce here in at least the late 1950's. It predates all other open air markets in the city in recent memory. After visiting many of the other markets, I can say with certainty that Alemany is one of the largest and one of the best. Prices are lower than Ferry Plaza because vendors who trade at both places have admitted to saving their best quality produce for the rarefied atmosphere of FPFM. The quality of the produce here is generally better than that being sold at Civic Center, but it varies from vendor to vendor, so this assessment can turn on a dime, or the date when visiting the markets. All in all, the produce at Alemany is plentiful and reasonably priced.


The selection of fruits and vegetables is broad and items other than fresh produce are also in great supply. For example, there are extra virgin olive oils from 2 and sometimes 3 vendors, honey, beeswax candles; duck, chicken and quail eggs, handmade soaps, bakery goods; Indian and Afghani condiments, spreads and flat breads; and vendors selling prepared foods. In Spring you may also find a vendor selling seedlings for your own home grown produce.


Exotic fruits like cherimoya can be found and although they are not grown locally, it's nice to have someone willing to drive them up from Southern California. Ordinary fruits like Granny Smith apples, citrus, grapes, peaches, plums and berries are carried in season, but some have been put in cold storage too, such as the grapes I saw in January. It's a good idea to ask if you want truly seasonal produce.


I've also seen Fava Beans in January, but discovered that they had been grown locally in a greenhouse. Most other vegetables are truly seasonal and ethnically diverse from Asian eggplants, mustard greens and melons to Italian specialties like cardoons, artichokes, and flat leaf parsley


As is evidenced by the photographs, this is a very colorful market and it is impossible for me to shop there without my camera. The lower right photo is of the most colorful walnuts I have ever seen. The skins of this nutmeat are reddish burgundy and the flavor is classic walnut. They are on the top of my grocery list when they appear again at Alemany Farmers' Market. Nash's Olive Oils set up the next photo for me. Besides the oils, they also sell cured olives by the pint and have agreed to sell me raw olives in November, so that I might try my hand at salt curing them. You meet the nicest people at the markets.

100 Alemany Blvd
San Francisco CA 94110-6221
Phone: (415) 647-9423

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Balsamic Mid-Priced Powerhouse


Liking balsamic vinegar and wanting the best puts me on a path to try many brands, both local and international. Bariani makes one of my favorite olive oils, but until recently I resisted their vinegar. Since one of the sons mans a stand at Ferry Plaza each Saturday, I finally asked for more information about it. It is not the imported vinegar that one might assume, but a vinegar they bottle themselves. Ah ha, but traditional balsamic is made from Trebbiano grapes.

Obviously they thought of that, and their product is made from Trebbiano grapes, but they have customized it by also using Zinfandel grapes to make their proprietary blend. Delicious! It has a higher acidity than most moderately priced, imported Balsamic vinegars, but it is also sweeter than the imports, with a heavier mouth feel and a more robust taste. At $11 per 500ml, it's a good value. I believe a reduction made with this vinegar may result in a close mimic of a very expensive "traditional" Balsamic. Thank you, famiglia Bariani, for leaving Lombardy to settle in California.

http://www.barianioliveoil.com/

Monday, June 9, 2008

Speaking of European Products...


Every time when visiting a new country, I beeline to an outdoor market or grocery store to get a feel for what products the locals are consuming. Most often they are using things you might find in an American market, only the products are produced locally. Case in point, Santa fruit juices produced in Italy. On a recent trip to Italy I photographed Santa juices because they are one of my favorites in the world. These commercially produced juices are made with 40% juice as compared to our 10-15%. What a difference the higher percentage of juice makes in the intensity of taste, and as a side benefit less sugar is required to make it. I bought some of the albicoca in Venice and it was delicious on its own, but made a fine addition to the Prosecco our hotelier comped us on the day my husband rejoined me after a hiking trip in Switzerland. I only wish I could buy this locally.

Another Favorite Italian Drink


When I was a child sitting at my grandparents' dining table, I would often wonder why my grandfather was adding water to his wine. He would often offer each grandchild a small glass of water laced with red wine, to drink along with their dinner, but we recognized that pure wine was for the adults. So why did he add water to his glass? If the question was ever put to him, he most likely would have responded that he liked it that way and that would have been answer enough for a child.
On my first trip to Italy, I discovered Lambrusco in Rome. I loved it as much as any American teenager would love Ripple (even though I was of legal drinking age), a fruity, sweet, red wine with a big plus, it fizzed! But I made no connection with that and my grandfather's preference. Then a few years ago I tasted Gutternio, a wine from Emilia Romagna that was a robust, dry, frizzante (sparkling), red wine. Bingo!!! Everything fell into place as I remembered that the water Papa had used was a sparkling water. He most certainly was trying to mimic an Italian wine that was not imported into the U.S. This wine is the one that I look for when dining in Italy, since it is still not available locally. Prior to all the hoopla about carrying liquids on planes, I used to carry back a few bottles in my purse.

No Shortage on Chocolates in the British Isles


Butler's has to be the best chocolate in Ireland. After our visit in May, I have been rationing out the few pieces of it that managed to make it back home with me. The idea of using some for small gifts didn't even occur to me once we left the Emerald Isle and my ease of purchasing it was over. The few milk chocolate bars I tried were luscious and silky on the tongue, some had caramel or ganache as fillings, but the best by far for me was this, the white chocolate and raspberry.


It compared favorably with the organic fair trade chocolates that are being marketed by the Marks and Spencer Food Halls all over Great Britain and Ireland. Of the two M&S flavors tasted, I thought the rose infused one was exotic and flavorful, but as a novelty taste, not a classic chocolate. The milk chocolate was distinct from most other good quality chocolates and excellent in flavor. You can bet I will purchase that one again, when I get the chance.

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Magnani in Berkeley


This butcher shop delicatessen is not packed to the rafters with products, but is worth a mention for the quality of its poultry, including fresh Muscovy duck and rabbit as well as some red meat, and its selection of olive oils and flavored Balsamic vinegars. It's really the vinegars that attract me to this small Berkeley, Gourmet Ghetto neighborhood shop. If fig, black currant, or pomegranate suit your taste, buy their empty bottles, fill them up and expand your Balsamic horizons. You can bring the bottle back for a refill another time, or two.

1576 Hopkins St
Berkeley CA 94707
Phone: (510) 528-6370

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Salt of the Earth...


While some would disagree, the texture of various salts seems more important than the actual taste. Some salts have more minerals or a higher degree of salinity, but unless they are flavored, they're pretty much the same...salty. Ah, but that's the rub, many salts are flavored and what a difference that makes, especially among the smoked salts.

Salish, the alder smoked salt of the Pacific Northwest is intense and I like its grayish brown color and small gravel like granules. Halen Mon, the Welsh oak smoked salt has a lighter smokiness with flat crystal flakes and a pale gray color. Having purchased a generic black smoked salt with fine textured crystals, I admit to that being the smokiest of them all. Even in a double bag, its aroma wafted through the kitchen for months, although it was tucked in the back of a utensil drawer, so it wouldn't affect other items like herbs and spices that would normally be stored with salt. When asked what was in it, all I could come up with was salt and carbon. I have never seen it again and I believe that is for the best, considering the description. I recently purchased a hickory flavored salt, but have yet to taste it.

Of the flavored salts I have purchased, Halen Mon Vanilla flavored flakes seems the most exotic, or perhaps an Italian truffle salt, or an hibiscus salt. But I haven't yet tried the latter two or a red pepper infused salt. Some flavored salts really fall flat, as did a sage salt and lemon salt I recently acquired. The ideas were better than the products, so a little experimentation with those combinations might be in order. I've already made my own lavender and rosemary salts with some success.

Pink salts have the most obvious mineral inclusions of iron, creating lovely coloring from the deep rust of Hawaiian Red or Alea salt to the soft pink of Real or Himalayan salt. To my palate, Real salt has the highest salinity level, and I usually refer to it as "salty salt" and reserve it for use on popcorn.

When it comes to textured salts, Murray River salt from Australia is my go to salt. I love the pink color and the flakes are just the perfect size, so as not to accidentally over salt something. Maldon salt from England comes in a strong second with light flakes of a modest size; again very easy to use without the danger of over salting foods.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Costco Italian Imports


Considering Costco is a "big box" store and is able to negotiate good prices by volume purchasing, I'm entirely surprised and delighted at the quality of its Italian imported balsamic and olive oil. I really believe it is passing along the good deal to its customers.

For very fair prices, they sell the best balsamic I have yet tried outside of Italy, and it has been aged for 15 years, not the typical 5 or occasional 10 years that are readily available in the US. Even compared to the equally inexpensive Trader Joe's 10 year balsamic, Costco has the superior product.
The olio nuovo is just what you might expect from a new Tuscan olive oil, grassy with a spicy finish. It's a steal at just under $12. Be sure to look for it this coming winter.

Sunday, March 9, 2008

Monterey Market in Berkeley


If unkempt store appearance or cosmetic flaws on produce are of upmost importance for you to avoid, this is not the market for you. I can understand the chaotic appearance of the store based on the shear volume of business being done at this Berkeley institution, but cleanliness is another matter. The floors on my last visit were sticky, heaven only knows what they had mopped up, and there was a need to crop out the edges of the refrigerated cases in the following photos, to avoid showing how dirty they were. That being said, I can deal with it; we have to wash everything anyway. Why? Because the prices are dirt cheap, excuse the pun, and they are an incredible resource for unusual products.


Case in point, the Bergamont sour oranges and Seville oranges pictured above. I have never seen these oranges for sale San Francisco. The Bergamont oranges were 79 cents per pound, and make the best marmalade with their classic "Earl Gray" aroma. The Seville oranges were also that same low price and are the classic marmalade orange. Navel oranges, the size of baseballs, could be had for 29 cents per pound. Granted, I had to forage through boxes of all three to find pieces of fruit in mint condition, but it was an adventure.


Their selections of fruits and vegetables are broader than most stores twice their size and I repeat, the prices are cheap by any standard. Click on a photo to enlarge it to better see the price. Monterey Market also has a fine selection of olive oils, vinegars, fresh mushrooms and condiments for a variety of ethnic recipes. The wine and bakery sections do not disappoint either.



http://www.montereymarket.com/


1550 Hopkins St
Berkeley CA 94707
510-526-6042
9:00 AM - 7:00 PM Monday - Friday
8:30 AM - 6:00 PM Saturday
Closed - Sunday