Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Salt of the Earth...


While some would disagree, the texture of various salts seems more important than the actual taste. Some salts have more minerals or a higher degree of salinity, but unless they are flavored, they're pretty much the same...salty. Ah, but that's the rub, many salts are flavored and what a difference that makes, especially among the smoked salts.

Salish, the alder smoked salt of the Pacific Northwest is intense and I like its grayish brown color and small gravel like granules. Halen Mon, the Welsh oak smoked salt has a lighter smokiness with flat crystal flakes and a pale gray color. Having purchased a generic black smoked salt with fine textured crystals, I admit to that being the smokiest of them all. Even in a double bag, its aroma wafted through the kitchen for months, although it was tucked in the back of a utensil drawer, so it wouldn't affect other items like herbs and spices that would normally be stored with salt. When asked what was in it, all I could come up with was salt and carbon. I have never seen it again and I believe that is for the best, considering the description. I recently purchased a hickory flavored salt, but have yet to taste it.

Of the flavored salts I have purchased, Halen Mon Vanilla flavored flakes seems the most exotic, or perhaps an Italian truffle salt, or an hibiscus salt. But I haven't yet tried the latter two or a red pepper infused salt. Some flavored salts really fall flat, as did a sage salt and lemon salt I recently acquired. The ideas were better than the products, so a little experimentation with those combinations might be in order. I've already made my own lavender and rosemary salts with some success.

Pink salts have the most obvious mineral inclusions of iron, creating lovely coloring from the deep rust of Hawaiian Red or Alea salt to the soft pink of Real or Himalayan salt. To my palate, Real salt has the highest salinity level, and I usually refer to it as "salty salt" and reserve it for use on popcorn.

When it comes to textured salts, Murray River salt from Australia is my go to salt. I love the pink color and the flakes are just the perfect size, so as not to accidentally over salt something. Maldon salt from England comes in a strong second with light flakes of a modest size; again very easy to use without the danger of over salting foods.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Costco Italian Imports


Considering Costco is a "big box" store and is able to negotiate good prices by volume purchasing, I'm entirely surprised and delighted at the quality of its Italian imported balsamic and olive oil. I really believe it is passing along the good deal to its customers.

For very fair prices, they sell the best balsamic I have yet tried outside of Italy, and it has been aged for 15 years, not the typical 5 or occasional 10 years that are readily available in the US. Even compared to the equally inexpensive Trader Joe's 10 year balsamic, Costco has the superior product.
The olio nuovo is just what you might expect from a new Tuscan olive oil, grassy with a spicy finish. It's a steal at just under $12. Be sure to look for it this coming winter.

Sunday, March 9, 2008

Monterey Market in Berkeley


If unkempt store appearance or cosmetic flaws on produce are of upmost importance for you to avoid, this is not the market for you. I can understand the chaotic appearance of the store based on the shear volume of business being done at this Berkeley institution, but cleanliness is another matter. The floors on my last visit were sticky, heaven only knows what they had mopped up, and there was a need to crop out the edges of the refrigerated cases in the following photos, to avoid showing how dirty they were. That being said, I can deal with it; we have to wash everything anyway. Why? Because the prices are dirt cheap, excuse the pun, and they are an incredible resource for unusual products.


Case in point, the Bergamont sour oranges and Seville oranges pictured above. I have never seen these oranges for sale San Francisco. The Bergamont oranges were 79 cents per pound, and make the best marmalade with their classic "Earl Gray" aroma. The Seville oranges were also that same low price and are the classic marmalade orange. Navel oranges, the size of baseballs, could be had for 29 cents per pound. Granted, I had to forage through boxes of all three to find pieces of fruit in mint condition, but it was an adventure.


Their selections of fruits and vegetables are broader than most stores twice their size and I repeat, the prices are cheap by any standard. Click on a photo to enlarge it to better see the price. Monterey Market also has a fine selection of olive oils, vinegars, fresh mushrooms and condiments for a variety of ethnic recipes. The wine and bakery sections do not disappoint either.



http://www.montereymarket.com/


1550 Hopkins St
Berkeley CA 94707
510-526-6042
9:00 AM - 7:00 PM Monday - Friday
8:30 AM - 6:00 PM Saturday
Closed - Sunday

Say Cheese...



Every time I enter The Milk Pail Market I feel like I'm transported to a rural countryside open air market. Boxes and boxes of fruit and vegetables are stacked as high as they can be to still allow customers to reach the contents, creating small lanes to traverse with their very narrow shopping carts. Bright colored umbrellas shade the produce and customers, cocooning them into an exotic atmosphere. But that is not the primary reason one travels out of San Francisco and halfway down the peninsula to shop....it's the cheese.


Four very long refrigerated cases hold the best selection of imported cheeses I have ever seen. For over 8 months I checked out all my local stores for Cabot Horseradish Cheddar, a cheese I love to use in grilled sandwiches. Milk Pail had it along with a chive horseradish Havarti I intend to try. They carry Italian, Dutch, English, Irish, Swiss, Swedish and Canadian cheeses and many other imports, but their French cheese list is the jewel in this crown. They sell more French cheese than any other store in this country and the turnover is at lightening speed. Best of all, most of it is ready to eat and fully ripe.



I can't even consider having a party without going to this cheese Mecca.The small green refrigerated case pictured above is their holiest of holys...the sale case! On this last trip it was loaded with English Stilton, chevre, Blue D'Auvergne, Roquefort, Norwegian Jarlsberg and smoked Rambol to name but a few, all for $1.99 - $5.99 per pound; absolutely rock bottom prices.


That's not all; their bread, roll, and cracker department is fully stocked and their condiment section is excellent. I buy all my chocolate and extracts for baking here too, since the Guittard is $3.09 per pound and the extracts are $3.45 - $3.99 per bottle. A supermarket extract could easily cost the same at 1/3 the size.


Recently, I've noticed their nuts which also are sold at a lower price than most stores would have. Milk Pail also carries a good selection of pates and other meat products like smoked duck breast and duck salami, that would appeal to the francophile in most of us.


An honorable mention should go to their butter case. Again, there imported selection is broad and includes one of my favorite butters, Delitia made from milk produced in the Parma area of Italy. French yogurts can also be found here. Oh, those beautiful yellow onions pictured at the top of this post... 20 cents per pound.

http://www.milkpail.com/

2585 California St
Mountain View CA 94040
[map + hours]
Phone 650.941.2505
Fax 650.941.2103